Design Principles and Elements: TEXTURE

With winter upon us and the garden more or less asleep for the time being makes this a great time to do some planning and design of what you would like to do with your garden this coming year. Having either a professional design on paper or just a personal, thought-out landscape to-do list will help you stay focused and have an action plan for transforming your garden to what you dream it could be.

All successful design incorporates the usage of universal design principles and elements. I believe this is true whether your creative outlet be pottery, painting, sculpture, photography, landscape gardening, or many others.  A few months ago I wrote a post introducing these design principles entitled What language are your speaking?  You can begin now to speak the language of design and use these principles and elements in your garden. As a resource I would like to dedicate a post to every one of them and give helpful examples of each. Lets start with Texture.

TEXTURE

In its basic definition think of texture as referring to how smooth or rough something is. Fine texture would be running your fingers across a glass marble. Course texture would be running your fingers over one of those mouth murdering, yet visually stunning sugar crystal rock candies. Has anyone really every actually eaten one of those? I digress...

                                              Glass Marble by Hans Splinter 12/24/2007 Flickr Creative Commons.                                                                               Rock Candy by Sabrina S. 5/18/2008 Flickr Creative Commons *

Texture also refers to the visual smoothness or roughness of an object (or group of objects) and in landscape design this visual aspect is what we are most often interested in. Even in the example above you can see that visually the rock candy has a more course texture than the glass marble. This course texture (taking color out of the equation, to be discussed in a later post) causes the rock candy to stand out over the marble.

Fine, so what do candy and childhood games have to do with design?  Because course or rough textures stand out and hold the eye longer in comparison to the more subtle, consistent, softness of fine textures we can play back and forth between fine and course texture in order to create interest, variety, excitement, and focal areas in the garden. Successful garden designers have mastered the use and balance of texture...... and probably how to play marbles as well. 

IN YOUR GARDEN

Although texture is considered and used in all garden materials including water, stone, wood, paving, and plants the most inexpensive and easy to manipulate and enhance are arguably plants. Don't misunderstand that to mean that other media carry more weight, plants are likely the most commonly used textural element in the garden.

So lets put plant texture to use in real terms.

Fine Texture Plants:

• Have small leaves and stems that are closely packed together
• Are relaxing rather than stimulating
• Recede into the distance creating a sense of more space in the garden
• Area of light, airy, expansive and soft character

Coarse Texture Plants:

•  Have the largest leaves and thickest stems
• Are bold, dominate, attention grabbers
• Advance into the foreground
• Create striking patterns of light and shadow
• Are solid, stable, anchoring plants in the landscape

In your garden try combining fine and course texture plants together to create more interest and appeal. If you would like to make your garden feel a little larger try installing course texture plants up a little closer and fine textures plants in the distance.  Perhaps if you have a birdbath, stone water feature, or bench help it to stand out by surrounding it with finer texture plants.  If your garden seems for some reason just to be too boring and monotonous no doubt you're lacking variety of plant texture.

BY WAY OF EXAMPLE

Bloedel Reserve, Skyler Westergard 5/5/2012

In this picture I took at the Bloedel Reserve on Bainbridge Island near Seattle, Washington you can see how the course texture of skunk cabbage is used along the boardwalk to create visual interest and dominance in contrast to the fine textured hemlock tree in the center. The skunk cabbage also contrasts with the fine texture of the boardwalk timbers.

Bellevue Botanical Garden, Skyler Westergard 7/5/2012

At the Bellevue Botanical Garden near a waterfall I snapped a picture showing a good example of the contrasting textures of Ligularia (right) and Artic Willow (left). Notice how the striking patterns of light and shadow are much more magnified on the coarse textured Ligularia making it stand out strikingly.

Flower World, Skyler Westergard, Summer 2013

On one visit to the the nursery I grabbed a couple container plants and threw them together for a picture showing another example of how texture can be used in the garden with plants alone. The smaller, fine textured leaves and soft feathery flowers of the pink Astilbe contrast near perfectly with the bold glossy course textured leaves of the Bergenia. This would be a great combination for any garden.




Take time to let your creative juices start flowing this winter and set aside a few enjoyable hours for some planning and design work on your garden. Next time you are out visiting your favorite nursery consider what plants you could combine to add more texture and a bit more zing and flavor to your outdoor space. I promise it will be well worth your time.


* http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/2.0/

Plant Profile: Profusion Beautyberry

When answering questions or giving advice about choosing plants for a landscape or when working on a design for a new landscape installation, I always talk to people about the need to have year-round garden interest. We are all certainly reminded of the need for such as the stunning fall colors fade and leaves dancingly float to the ground while the relative barrenness of winter seems to quickly approach.

Winter landscape interest can be accomplished in a myriad of ways including: winter berries, stem and bark color, plant texture, winter flowers, interesting branching habits, and architecture. Today I wish to highlight a plant that displays arguably one of the most breathtaking berry clusters imaginable.

In fall and through early winter Profusion Beautyberry boasts a prolific display of  hundreds or thousands of small violet, purple berries that resemble some sort of magical pearl.  It is one of those plants whose berry display simply cannot be comprehended without experiencing it in person. I highly recommend giving serious consideration to beautyberry as part of your garden's fall and winter interest display.

Profusion Beautyberry ( Callicarpa bodinieri 'Profusion')

Profusion Beautyberry. Skyler Westergard Residence, WA. Fall 2013

Growing 6-10' tall and wide this plant likes good loamy, moist soil especially when flowering and during fruit set.  For a better fall and winter display the plant needs a fair amount of sunlight and can be planted in full sun or part shade and loves long hot summers.

Beautyberry gets its violet berries on the current seasons new growth so pruning about a third of the plant down to the base every year will promote its profusion of berry pearls.  On that note, if the plant gets too large and unruly the whole thing can be cut back to the base in late winter to reset its size.

In the summer the berries are preceded by loads of small pale pink flowers. Every flower will produce one berry so the quantity of midsummer flower display can be appealing as well.

The berries themselves are not poisonous, but are quite bitter as supposedly are the leaves. For this reason the shrub is listed as deer resistant. The berries can also attract birds. The American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), a close relative, is better suited for making jellies, for which recipes are easily available online, and is know also as the French Mulberry.

In the landscape, use Beautyberry as a woodland planting, massed together for more berry display, or combine with other fall and winter berry plants such as Red Winterberry, Cotoneaster, or orange Firethorn.

Recommended Read: The Garden of Invention

As summer slowly slips out of reach and the cool temperatures and spectacular fall leaf colors quickly reach their pitch there is no doubt our gardens will in time enter their annual slumber. For the discouragement of knowing I have to wait these several months of increased darkness accompanied by rain and snow and cold are significantly enlightened by knowing I can always grab a good book to dive into. Gardening books of course can always be found close to my bedside.

This weeks article is the first of what I plan on being many posts containing reviews and recommended reads. I share with you the perfect gardening book to be picked up during this time of year when perhaps we are not as consumed by the details of what temperature the soil should be before the peas go in, or how to prune that unruly Rhody, or what is causing those scarlet tomatoes to rot. Jane Smith's book The Garden of Invention: Luther Burbank and the Business of Breeding Plants is an exciting and most interesting leisurely read not on the details of how to garden, but on the life of Luther Burbank accompanied by a most delicious historical slice of America, agriculture, and plants during the early 20th century.


Although mostly long forgotten, Luther Burbank is responsible for the breeding and introduction of many of the plants that most gardeners work with on a daily basis and take for granted as a long time part of the plant buffet. Most famous of the more than eight hundred new varieties introduced by Burbank include: Shasta Daisy, Rainbow Corn, Elephant garlic, and the Russet Burbank Potato. The last of which is arguably one of the most used plants in the world. According to Smith, McDonalds restaurants specify only Russet Burbanks. It is hard to imagine a time when such a plant, or the french fries they represent, did not exist.

In this book you walk along with Luther Burbank in his Santa Rosa, California, garden as he nearly stumbles upon and markets the now well known Russet potato, breeds and grafts new fruit trees, pollinates poppies, and creates one of the largest gardening mail order catalogs in the world. A most welcome inclusion in the book are many original photographs of Burbank including him entertaining Thomas Edison and Henry Ford at his home in Santa Rosa as well as many great prints of magazine covers featuring Burbank, as well as original plant advertisements and seed catalog marketing efforts before the introduction of high quality photography and color printing.  One of my favorites portrays Burbank on the cover of Success Magazine in 1905 described as the High Priest of Horticulture.

I highly recommend picking up this book as a great fall or winter gardening read. Jane Smith's writing style is smooth and eloquent. She effortlessly keeps the attention and interest of anyone interested in plants, and you're guaranteed to finish your walk through Burbank's Santa Rosa garden more knowledgeable about the history of American horticulture as well as some of your favorite plants.

Corn Smut and Truffles: Disease or Delicacy?

Photo taken by AJ Cann, 2/19/2012, Available on Flickr

I recently received some questions from a reader with accompanying pictures of a most disgusting, alien looking gray and black growth on their corn. If any of you have seen this on the ears of corn in your garden, as this picture shows, it can be quite astounding.  When a plant disease is big enough you can hear it mocking you and you think it may be growing eyes it sparks a bit of curiosity and possibly resentment. Would you believe that this alarming growth is also used quite intentionally in cooking and there is a good chance that you have probably eaten some? Why don't we get to that in a minute?

Corn Smut

For must of us trying to grow a few rows of our favorite sweet corn along the sunny garden path, this growth is considered a most undesirable part of our summer gardening experience. As a disease this is called corn smut.  Basically it is a fungal growth caused most commonly by the fungus Ustilago.  

Inside the smooth gray covering lies black spores of Ustilago. According to The Ohio State University these spores overwinter in the soil for up to 2-3 years. When the gray sac or gal ruptures these spores are carried to and fro throughout your garden and soil in any manner of different ways.  Combine this with warm temperatures and moisture in early summer and wa-la: you have corn smut. Growing like yeast, the fungus can be noticeable on your corn within ten days of infection.

SO NOW WHAT?

If you happen to have corn smut on your ears and you don't want to keep it in an effort to really add some pizazz to your fall door-step halloween decorations there are some things you should do.

• Remove infected plant parts or entire plants immediately. Remember the spores can live for 2-3 years in the soil so getting rid of them means putting the infected plants in garbage bags and throwing them away. Don't compost them.
• Be careful not to injure plants by cultivating too close to the roots and stocks. These injuries create openings where the fungus enters and then multiplies.
• Incorporate crop rotation. Don't plant corn in the same location in the garden every year, but switch everything around from year to year. This also helps with many other garden problems and diseases.
• Probably most important is to plant varieties of corn that are much less susceptible to corn smut.  Disease resistant plants can do the bulk of the work in reducing disease problems and pesticide use in most plants.

Mexican Truffle

Photo taken by Ross Grady 7.29.2011, Available on Flickr

Amazingly and quite interestingly in Mexican cooking this corn "problem" is a real delicacy. In Mexico and Mexican cooking is is called Huitlacoche (pronounced whee-tla-KO-cheh), corn mushroom, or Mexican Truffle.  According to the Tijuana, Mexico, restaurant Aqui es Texcoco, Huitlacoche has a smoky, earthy taste and is used in stews, tamales, quesadillas, soups, salads, and deserts. 

It's good for your health also.  Several journals, including Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition and Food Chemistry have published research articles showing Huitlacoche has high levels of the amino acid Lysine, something corn has little of.  Lysine is an essential building block of proteins and plays a major role in a healthy body, yet the human body cannot produce it. 

And finally for the agricultural economists out there, further studies show Huitlacoche to be much more profitable than the corn it grows on. Millions of dollars have been spent in an effort to reduce corn smut from infecting commercial corn production.  Could you believe that some of the most fresh stages of corn smut being sold is bringing as much as $20 per pound?  

Now you can decide for yourself whether your corn fungus is a disease or a delicacy.  I suppose it depends on what you're in the mood for. 

Tomatoes: Rotten Tomatoes

Recently I was asked a question concerning tomatoes which appear to be rotting on the vine. I thought a blog post would be a good way to answer the question as many other people likely have seen this not uncommon problem, or are likely to in the future.

This picture, passed along to me, which is bound to make any gardener a little squeamish, shows the problem which is called Blossom End Rot.

Blossom End Rot on Tomato

Blossom End Rot

The symptoms include a sunken brown or black discoloration at the bottom of the tomato. This particular problem always starts at the blossom end of the tomato, hence it's name. This spot will increase in size with time. It is also very likely that the symptoms will manifest themselves on additional fruit on the same plant and possibly nearby plants as well.

Of the many possible problems a plant can get this one is unique in that it is a physiological problem. It is not caused by insect, bacteria, or fungus. In other words it is not solved by some kind of insecticide or fungicidal spray.  Being physiological, it is not contagious to other plants.

Blossom End Rot is caused by a lack of sufficient calcium during critical stages of fruit development.  Tomatoes get calcium from soil, pulling it in through their roots in solution along with water and other nutrients. Calcium is used by the plant in part to create more complex molecules which hold the cells together.

                                                                                      It's a sad tomato that can't hold it cells together.


CONTROL

Like most problems in life, as in plants, the best control is preventative. In most cases tomatoes don't get enough calcium as a result of dramatic changes in soil moisture levels. Plants whose roots go from really wet to extremely dry are much more likely to get Blossom End Rot. Not enough water in the soil decreases the amounts of calcium taken up by the roots. 

DO:

• Keep your tomatoes evenly moist, especially in times of drought
• Apply a well composted mulch around your plants to keep soil moist for longer periods
• Plant tomatoes in soil that drains well as water logged roots can cause similar problems
• Used a balanced fertilizer if and when needed
• Dispose of all affected fruit on the plant
• In extreme cases spray plants with calcium chloride solution every 10 days
• Keep the soil pH around 6.5 to free up more calcium in the soil. Too high pH ties up calcium

DO NOT:

• Cultivate or break up the soil around the plants roots
• Apply too much fertilizer high in Nitrogen. Too much fertilizer can cause plants to grow rapidly and magnify the calcium deficiency problem as fruit is developing
• Allow plants to dry out too much following periods of rapid growth

Blossom End Rot could be thought of as a tomato's version of tooth decay. Both are caused by calcium deficiencies and are also similar in that, as mentioned above, they are physiological issues. Too bad tomatoes don't drink milk, huh?

Blossom End Rot can also be present in eggplants and sweet peppers. The treatment and preventative measure would be the same as for tomatoes.

If you are seeing other problems with your tomatoes or any other plant you're trying to grow in your garden feel free to share pictures and questions with me and let them be the source for an upcoming blog post.

Design Principles and Elements: What Language are you speaking?

Everyone has experienced those garden or landscape spaces that just by being in them makes your heart pound and your creativity level go into overdrive. I would dare say that most of you have also been in those unfortunate and uncomfortable outdoor spaces, hopefully not in your own front yard, that make your left eye close sagging and right eye stare blindly off into space twitching as did my brothers when I asked him to try the homemade salsa which accidentally received double portions of salt and no portions of sugar.

So what makes the difference?  Why when you're in some garden spaces you feel peace, comfort, excitement, rest, beauty, or spirituality and in others discomfort, annoyance, stress, discouragement, or even fear?

The differences have little to do with how many weeds they have (but don't let that be an excuse to not weed your garden). No two landscape spaces are the same, but the truly remarkable ones that I see have the same principles in common. And on the other hand, when I see poorly executed landscapes they lack many of those same qualities.

In design there are universal principles and elements which arguably are shared by every art or design medium. That's right, I am suggesting that gardening is very much similar to oil painting, sculpture, photography, writing, and all others. The understanding and use of these design principles and elements are what makes the difference between success and failure in creating an uplifting, peaceful, and beautiful garden. Although differences exist in the way these principles and elements are described and organized they are:

Volunteer Park, Seattle, WA. A peaceful & romantic garden space.
Here we see the use of  Line in the vertical pillars holding up the roof,
Texture in the gravel pathway, Scale & Proportion in the size of the trees in
 relation to the height of the building and Color in the play of chartreuse
and pink cherry blossoms.

• Texture
• Scale & Proportion             
• Balance
• Rhythm
• Emphasis
• Line 
• Form 
• Color
• Unity
• Variety 

Alright, don't freak out! I promise you don't have to memorize these to be more successful in the garden.  Scott Scarfone in his book Professional Planting Design calls his principles of design the "Language of Design." Over the next several months I plan on writing posts where I will help you begin to speak this language and will show you tips on how to incorporate each one. Understanding even a little bit about these principles will help you incorporate them in your garden and, for some of you perhaps, start making heads turn towards your garden... instead of away. Aren't you excited?

The garden is a three dimensional canvas in which a unique experience is created, either intentionally or unintentionally.   Scarfone teaches that in these garden spaces the mind and eye react to create a highly complex psychological and physical experience.  For me the garden is about so much more than what plant grows in the shade, although that is important to understand. The garden is an emotional, mental, and physical experience, just as Scarfone teaches. To go one step further, I believe that these experiences add so much depth and dimension to our existence to even be crucial to our mental health, happiness, and well being.

No matter how amateur or advanced of a gardener you may be, all may incorporate more fully the principles and elements of design. Stay tuned for the series of posts helping you to speak the Language of Design in your garden work. Begin now to create the sort of landscape experience you would like wherever you might garden. What could be more rewarding?

Hydrangeas: The Embroidered Globes

Blue Mophead Hydrangea, Seattle, WA LDS Temple

With summer here we can't help but discuss one of the most popular summer flowering shrubs. In China, where many of these fabulous plants originate, the mophead styles are commonly called xiuqiu, being interpreted "embroidered globe or sphere." What a wonderfully poetic and most accurate name for this fabulous plant we call hydrangea.

If you're lucky enough to live in an area where the hydrangea will thrive and are considering adding one or two to your garden this summer, I strongly recommend it.   These plants provide year round interest starting with the great color and texture of their spring leaves, to their fantastic summer blooms, and all the way through most of winter.  In winter the flower petals and heads dry up naturally to a carmel tan and hang on the plant for winter interest, especially on those mornings of a frost or light snow. 

If that wasn't enough, most hydrangeas are not overcome by those pesky and annoying insect or disease problems. They also grow in a variety of soil types and most don't need any pruning, so this is certainly an easy plant to take care of.  If you haven't had the best luck with plants in the past just make sure your hydrangea is in part shade and gets sufficient water, especially during the hotter months of the year.

Although there are many hundred different styles or varieties of hydrangeas under several different species it will help to know the most readily available types you are likely to find at your favorite garden center.

Main Hydrangea Types

Mophead Hydrangea, Seattle, WA LDS Temple

Mophead or Bigleaf Hydrangea

This is the Chinese "embroidered globe." They can get up to 6 ft. high and wide, although there are some dwarf varieties. They are known for their large mop head or globular flower heads, and most flower on two year old wood so reduced and careful pruning is a must. (Note: I plan on doing a follow up post on hydrangea pruning in late winter which is the appropriate time for it to be done.)

Lacecap Hydrangea

Lacecap Hydrangea, Seattle, WA LDS Temple,

The Lacecap is characteristic by its flower head containing two different types of flowers. Around the outside consists a ring or halo of wide open flower faces. This is contrasted by a massing of small--yet no less interesting--flowers located within the halo.  The Lacecap is a type of Bigleaf Hydrangea and is treated the same, yet I separate it out as another group from the Mophead shown above because of distinguishing differences in its flower style.

Peegee Hydrangea, Flower World, Maltby, WA

Peegee (Panicled) Hydrangea

The Peegee Hydrangea generally has smaller leaves than the Bigleaf Hydrangeas and its flower is quite different in that it forms a cone shape and the plant can be much larger in size. The flowers are almost always white or cream colored.  The Peegee Hydrangea also differs greatly from the Bigleaf in that it responds really well to annual vigorous pruning and will respond with larger flowers. Prune it like a rose bush.

Oak Leaf Hydrangea, Flower World, Maltby, WA

Oak Leaf Hydrangea

These excellent hydrangeas are characterized by their large Oak shaped, fuzzy leaves. The flowers are similar to the Peegee and come in shades of white. Pruning should be minimally pruned similar to the Bigleaf variety.  The leaves of this variety can turn a burgundy to red in the fall giving a nice fall interest. Smaller than the Peegee, this plant gets 5-6 ft. tall and wide.




I recommend using the hydrangea in an area where you have the opportunity to see their flowers closely. These plants make great accents to front porches or entrances and will always welcome any visitor with wonder. The larger flowered and more intense pink, red, and blue Mophead varieties can also be planted in groups of three to add serious curb appeal from the street.

Rhododendron Pruning: Now that was Easy!

With the peak Rhododendron season of this year just behind us, it is the ideal time to deadhead and do any pruning, especially heavy pruning, that needs to be done on the Rhodies in your yard. Read on to learn about Rhody pruning and the term "adventitious buds," then use the term to prove to friends and neighbors just how much of a green thumb you really have.

Before picture of a Rhody needing some pruning

Many varieties of Rhodies can grow too large for the space allotted to them. If too much time goes by without action some of these varieties will eat up your yard, taking up valuable landscaping space. Because Rhodies will begin setting their buds for next year, a little extra time now can keep these guys under control and encourage heavy flowering next spring.




Follow my 3 Easy Steps:

1)  Start by taking a pair of loppers and reduce the height by taking the tallest branches and cutting them down low in the plant. Once you get the tallest ones out you can always go a bit further by cutting back additional branches, but always remember to step back every few cuts and take a look from different angles so you end up with a balanced plant that doesn't look too crazy.

2) Next, with either your favorite pair of small hand pruners or with just your thumb and forefinger pinch off all the spent flower remnants that remain on the plant. I strongly recommend this step for all your Rhodies each year even if you don't need to reduce the size of your plant as described in Step 1. Leaving the spent flowers allows the plant to expend energy into making seeds and reproducing. We would rather have the plant spend energy making more flower buds for next year. Note: This step can be sticky.


3) Lastly, stand back, take a look, then fine tune the shape and size of the plant by making any additional smaller cuts on a branch here or there by using your small hand pruners to cut back any additional branches that just need to go. For a cleaner look you can make these cuts just above a whorl of leaves along the stem.





Adventitious Buds

Alright, now to the adventitious buds I promised to talk about and an important part of understanding Rhododendron pruning.  Adventitious buds can be described as new buds that break out along the stem where branches and leaves didn't exist before. These develop from particular cells laid down along the stems or branches where they lay waiting just under the bark for the right conditions to break forth. In Rhodies we trigger these adventitious buds to break forth when we cut back larger, woody stems and branches.

Heading cut made to force adventitious bud break

In other words, by cutting back large overgrown branches in the spring, we can force from near these cuts new, young, tender growth to break out and replace the old overgrown areas. It is actually incredible to watch Rhodies and other plants do this.  Many times I will head back a large branch, cutting it half or two thirds of the way down (as opposed to all the way to the base) because I want new growth to break at that point and rejuvenate the plant in that area.  

After picture of Rhody after 3 Easy Steps

Here is a finished look at the Rhody I started with above. From a few feet away it doesn't look like I did anything to it, but compared to the before picture it is smaller, lower, and cleaned up.

This is just what your looking for here, a nice natural looking pruning job, highlighting the plants natural form, but keeping everything under control and flowering well.

Tomatoes: Lots of flowers, no fruit

People ask me from time to time why their otherwise healthy, prolifically flowering tomato plant does not seem to set fruit properly or isn't setting fruit at all. This can especially be the case here in the Pacific Northwest where we can have cool, rainy, and humid spring weather. With just a little help your tomato plant should be on its way to providing you with loads of your favorite tomato. Personally, I'm looking forward to my Sun Gold Cherry tomatoes. I doubt they will ever even make it in the house though as my family can't help but eat them right off the stem.

Tomato Blossoms, Westergard Garden

Here is little dose of science and big dose of fun how-to, which should get your tomatoes back on track if they seem to be misbehaving this spring. 

One nice thing about tomatoes is that the blossoms are self-fertile, meaning that each blossom can pollinate itself. It doesn't require pollen from another plant or other flowers. The blossom does need a bit of help though, most often through the aid of a pollinator. Bumble bees commonly provide this help by "sonicating." Cool new word, huh? Sonication is the vibration of the bees wing muscles, without the wings moving, and when done while the Bumble bee is sitting on the blossom it causes the dried pollen dust to move off the anther (male part) and onto the stigma and down into the ovary (female parts).  Wala!, tomatoes.

Sun Gold Tomatoes, Westergard Garden

Your tomato may be putting on lots of yellow flowers, but in cool, moist spring weather bee activity may be reduced and the pollen may not be drying out enough to easily move off the anther. Good news though: you can replicate bee sonication by manual giving your tomato plants a vigorous shake on a sunny dry day. Yep, that's usually all it takes. If you have an electric tooth brush this could also be used at the base of the blossoms along the stem to vibrate the anthers and release the pollen. Wind movement also shakes the tomato blossoms and will also cause fertilization.

A couple other interesting facts about sonication from the website Honey Bee Suite are that first, honey bees do not sonicate and second, other plants that may require or do better with sonicating bumble bees include the potato, blueberry, and cranberry. (http://www.honeybeesuite.com/wednesday-word-file-sonication/)

Good luck with those tomatoes!

Plant Profile: PGM Rhododendron

PGM Rhododendren, Seattle, WA LDS Temple

The PGM Rhododendron is an early flowering, compact, broadleaf evergreen shrub.  I love this plant for its loud profusion of lavender flowers and fragrant scent. To me it smells like some sort of a bubble gum from my childhood.

It likes slightly acidic, organically rich soil which is moist, but not too wet and does well in the shade. 

The PGM is one of the earliest flowering not only Rhody's but spring shrub. It explodes with brilliance in April and, in the Puget Sound, vigorously beckons in spring earlier than spring wants to be beckoned.

Design uses could be as a broadleaf evergreen screen for year round green or as a spring focal point. I recommend planting the PGM in close enough proximity to patios and walkways where the flowers and fragrance can be enjoyed up close and personal. This little guy can certainly stand alone, but if so repeat it in several other places throughout the yard for balance and repetition. In the right area it could also be used as an informal, loose hedge as is done on the grounds of the Seattle LDS Temple in Bellevue, WA. There it is used to create a ring hedge around a circle of lawn resulting in a perfect outdoor room.