Plant Profile: Clematis Vine

One of the most fascinating and pleasurable aspects of the art and science of the horticulture and landscaping world is witnessing first hand the year-round dynamic changes of a garden. And it really truly is dynamic, full of energy, and exciting as in spring we watch, in essence, the resurrection of life in the form of exploding buds, emerging flowers, and developing fruit.

I look out upon my own small garden every morning while getting ready for work, and then reexamine it at the end of my work day even before entering the house. I walk through it looking at the day's development of every plant as a method of transition and stress reduction from work to home. And boy does it ever do its job!

During late May the plant on center stage for me during my daily garden tour is the Clematis vine. Like many plants, even the best pictures on glossy pages are no match for the reality of staring in person at the wide open, flat face of a Clematis flower and having them stair, boldly right back at you with flowers as big as your hand.

Clematis Clematis varr.
 

Clematis, Westergard House, Skyler Westergard May 2014

Consisting of more than 200 different species Spring, Summer, and Fall clematis varieties all can be obtained. Most are deciduous vines, but there is some few evergreens as well, specifically Clematis armandii.

Clematis, Westergard House, Skyler Westergard, May 2014

A vine, most clematis will grow 10-12 feet high and 3-5 across with flower diameters being as much as 8 inches across, or as little as just 2 inches. Generally speaking the more vigorous, larger spreading clematis vines boast a smaller flower, but more profusion of blooms. The larger flowering varieties such as the one shown above from my garden do not spread quite as profusely.

Plant your clematis vine where the leaves and flowers are in the sun, but their roots are in the shade. Mine, luckily, was planted well by the previous homeowner with its roots tucked in the cool shade under a nearby shrub, with the rest of the plant being in full sun.  Roots of the plant also need moist soil with plenty of organic matter such as compost or decomposing leaf litter.

Clematis seeds 3, Tanakawho, 8.16.2006, Available at flickr.com

Do not overlook the season when the flowers are spent. The seed heads of Clematis are arguably one of the most interesting and unique seed structures you will see in the garden. The are some who undoubtedly find the seed heads just as interesting and exciting as the flower itself.

Lastly, remember clematis is a vine so use it in the landscape to cover an area you want to hid or to climb on, such as an arbor, trellis, fence, gazebo, or pergola.  With the spectacular flowers and out of this world seed heads perhaps it might even be worth building some new structure in your garden just so you can plant a clematis and have it be part of your own daily garden tour.

Moss & the Color Green

As spring continues to approach we all feel infused with new energy emanating from increased sunlight, warmth, and the blossoms of early flowering trees and shrubs. With such, our gardening to-do lists and landscape ambitions are again awakened from their long winter hibernation. 

Snail in Moss, Lord Hill Regional Park, Skyler Westergard

For many of you in cooler and wetter climates such as those here in the Pacific Northwest, one of the perennial influences on gardens this time of year is moss & the color green.  Even in the hot, arid climates of Utah and Idaho I have seen moss growing in wet, shady, and poorly draining areas.

There is no doubt that the wide range and variety of moss in the Northwest typifies its climate and has unlimited photo ops for calenders, art, book covers, and blogs.  How could there really be so many different shades and tones of green?  Moss's green is unbelievably beautiful and restorative.


Arguably, green is one of the colors that we see the most often.  The grass, shrubs, flowers, mosses, and tree leaves all around us radiate this wonderful color. Color theorists and psychologists teach that the color green is the symbol of healing, health, balance, and renewal. Green is the color of life and restoration. It is the balance and opposite of bright intense colors, especially red.  It balances and restores the eye.  What a blessing to have so much green all around us both as a symbol and literal source of renewal and life.

Olympic National Park, James Gaither (2008) Flickr

So why would anyone ever want to get rid of moss, a source of so much green? 

Without getting into the differing ideas of its correctness or the cultural roots of the idea of why, which would be the topic of another post, there are indeed times and contexts where moss is not desired. Besides on roofs and gutters, in our lawns would be at the top of the list. Most people desire a healthy strand of grass...moss free. If you are dealing with moss in your lawn, spring is the best time to treat it.

Moss loves to grow in soil that is constantly wet, cool, shady, and in areas with low pH levels.  To control moss three main steps are necessary.

Buffalo Grass Lawn, Robert Wallace (2006) Flickr

1. Iron Sulfate - Most often applied in a granular form, it also comes in liquid.  Water granular applications in well immediately after applying.  Apply when conditions are dry and DO NOT get this on your clothes, house, or concrete as it will nearly immediately and permanently stain. (I speak from experience).
2. Rake - After moss turns black from the iron sulfate application take a good stiff leaf rake or rent a power rake/dethatcher and work the moss out of the lawn and dispose of it.
3. Lime -  Lawn grows best in soils with a near neutral pH of about 6.5 or 7.  In low pH situations, which is most often the case where moss is present, add lime to your lawn in order to raise the pH and discourage future moss.  Lime is more of a longer term piece to the puzzle, as it will not do anything to kill moss that already exists.

It must be noted that moss is epiphytic, meaning it can grow on other plants yet is not harmful to them. It photosynthesizes on its own and so is not parasitic to plants.  Many professionals get as many questions on how to grow moss as how to kill it.  I myself live this double standard in some gardens I maintain.  One month I may be applying iron and lime to one area, while at other times I am testing new web searched moss recipes on other garden paths to start moss growing. For better or worse I have been successful at both and should well dedicate a post on how to grow moss for those who wish to do so.

In your garden this spring whether you're trying to kill moss, grow moss, or couldn't care less about moss, take time to appreciate the beauty and influence of green all around you.  It truly is one of God's gifts to us as earthly beings.

 

Hydrangea Pruning: Its as easy as 1, 2, 3

Believe it or not, Spring will eventually come. There are signs already.  Up here in the Pacific Northwest early daffodils are already in brilliant bloom.  If you're in a little colder climate you might have noticed a crocus bulb or two peaking their ambitious heads through the snow or the Birch trees shedding their cinnamon-like debris on top of the winter wonderland. These are the subtle signs that nature gives us, helping us hang on in hope for just a little longer, waiting for the plant world to again resurrect back into vibrant life. I can't wait.

With Spring undoubtedly on its way, this is a great time to do some dormant pruning of plants such as spirea, fruit trees, dogwood shrubs, roses, and especially your hydrangeas, arguably one of the most spectacular flowering shrubs.

Late Winter Hydrangea, ready for pruning

For most people who don't spend everyday caring for plants, pruning can be a little overwhelming. When do I prune? What do I prune?  How much can I take off?  Will this kill the plant?  These are all great questions I have been asked.  The following are my three simple pruning steps to get your hydrangeas in shape, ready to produce breathtaking blooms this coming summer.









STEPS 1, 2, 3

Cut just above a pair of healthy buds

1.  The first step is to simply take your favorite pair of sharp hand pruners and cut off all the dead, spent flowers. Cut just above a pair of healthy buds being sure not to damage them.  If your hydrangea is a bit overgrown then go ahead and cut down the stem a little ways to reduce the height, but be sure to leave a couple feet of stems with buds on them. I should mention here that I like to keep the brown, dried out flower heads on the plant all winter to add color and texture to the garden during the dormant months.

This is what you have after step 1.

Remove oldest/largest branches (about 1/3 or less of the total).

2. The next step is to take a pair of loppers (larger, long handled pruners) and cut back about 1/3 or so of the oldest and largest branches on your plant.  These you will cut back to the base, leaving only a few inches or so left of the branch. Cutting these back will open up the plant and allow younger more energetic branches to flourish and will also encourage new branches to come up from the base. Removing about 1/3 of the oldest branches every year will keep the plant healthy and vigorous.

Finished hydrangea ready for a spectacular summer

3.  In the last step simply go back, grab your small hand pruners and simply prune off any remaining small dead branches. Also, take a second to step back and look at the overall shape and balance of the plant. If there is a branch or two that just look out of place, are too low or high, or just otherwise don't look right go ahead and prune them back and remove them. Once you're happy with the shape dispose of the removed cuttings in your garden waste bin or mulch pile, pat yourself on the back, and wait patiently for your hydrangea summer blooms to wow friends and neighbors.


Hydrangeas are great plants and there are many varieties. For an overview of hydrangeas read my earlier post; Hydrangeas: The Embroidered Globes. Hydrangeas like to be in moist rich soil and part shade. In the spring, add a light application of a balanced fertilizer or a couple inches of good compost mulch.